Field notes
04
West Africa · 2011-2013

Senegal

The essay

What's magical about this country?

Senegal is a study in teranga — the untranslatable Wolof word for a hospitality so complete it reshapes you. Between the pink water of Lac Rose and the ateliers of Médina, I filled a sketchbook with indigo and gold and left with a heart three sizes larger.

Elsewhere on the map
More from Senegal
Gamou — Grande Mosquée at night, Tivaouane
Gamou — Grande Mosquée at night, Tivaouane
Gamou — inside the dome, chandelier and calligraphy
Gamou — inside the dome, chandelier and calligraphy
Popenguine — the red cliffs at dusk
Popenguine — the red cliffs at dusk
Mar Lodj — bottle marker on the Sine-Saloum delta
Mar Lodj — bottle marker on the Sine-Saloum delta
Lompoul — camels grazing at the edge of the dunes
Lompoul — camels grazing at the edge of the dunes
Lompoul — resting under the eucalyptus
Lompoul — resting under the eucalyptus
Beekeeping in the mangroves
Beekeeping in the mangroves
Mboro — a moringa clearing framed by palms
Mboro — a moringa clearing framed by palms
Thanksgiving dinner at the American Embassy in Dakar
Thanksgiving dinner at the American Embassy in Dakar
Mango tree — courtyard
Mango tree — courtyard
Kédougou — waterfall
Kédougou — waterfall
Kédougou — hills under monsoon
Kédougou — hills under monsoon
Joal — mangrove delta
Joal — mangrove delta
Mboro Beach — painted pirogues
Mboro Beach — painted pirogues